Ushuaia on a Budget: Glaciers, Penguins, and the Southernmost City

Ushuaia. The End of the World. Fin del Mundo.

Most people probably have zero interest in visiting Ushuaia, the world’s southernmost city. And I can see why: it is isolated, cold and hard to reach. In fact, it is probably fair to say that most would rather visit the Ushaia night club in Ibiza. But not us – there was just something about that little tip of South America that made us want to check it out.

With a name like “the End of the World”, we almost expected this Argentine city to feel a desolate, wind-battered outpost. And while it definitely was windy (RIP my hairline), what we found was a vibrant, rugged, and surprisingly welcoming city nestled between jagged peaks and the icy Beagle Channel.

Here is exactly how we tackled the southernmost city on Earth on a backpacker’s budget (although i will admit that we splurged on a BBQ Easter Sunday meal (I am now employed afterall!).

Why Visit the "End of the World"?

Let’s be honest, you don’t come to Ushuaia expecting warm weather, good beaches and nightlife. You come here for the, the raw nature, the sheer feeling of isolation and, at least in my case, just to say you have had the world’s southernmost beer.

For us, this was the grand finale of our Patagonian adventure.

Getting There: The Epic Bus Journey South

We started our journey in the Chilean city of Punta Arenas after our amazing 5 day roadtrip through Chilean Patagonia adventures (read here!).

Now, you can fly via somewhere like Buenos Aires (which is a bit ridiculous), but if you want to save money and see the landscape change from vast pampas to rugged mountains, the bus is the way to go.

Cost: £41 per person (approx. $53 USD).
Booking: We used Busbud.com, which made it super easy to book in advance.

We grabbed an Uber at a painful 05:00 AM from our homestay to the Punta Arenas bus station for our 06:00 AM departure. All went smoothly, and amazingly the bus itself was perfectly comfy.

The Route

The 10-hour drive is an adventure in itself. You head north to the ferry terminal to cross the Strait of Magellan, the legendary waters where explorers once sailed.

Once you land on Tierra del Fuego (The Land of Fire), it’s a long drive south, with the first highlight being the border control between Chile and Argentina.

Top Gear fans, keep your eyes peeled. The most notable highlight along the desolated highway is the petrol station near Tolhuin where the cast of the Patagonia Special was famously attacked.

Eventually, the flat plains give way to a beautiful lake and dramatic, snow-dusted mountains. You cross the Garibaldi Pass, and suddenly, there it is: Ushuaia.

Welcome to Ushuaia: A City of Extremes

Before we dive into what we did, a little context. Ushuaia hasn’t just been used for tourists heading to Antarctica; f it has a gritty, fascinating history.

Founded in the late 1800s, it famously served as a penal colony for Argentina’s most dangerous criminals. The idea was simple: nobody escapes from the end of the world. The prisoners actually built much of the town and the railway.

Geographically, you are isolated. To the north, the Martial mountains; to the south, the Beagle Channel. It also holds deep significance regarding the Falklands War (known here as the Malvinas War). Being the closest Argentine port to the islands, Ushuaia was a strategic base during the 1982 conflict, and the scars of that war are still very visible in the city’s monuments and the hearts of the locals.

Day 1: The "Sandwich God" & The Southernmost Pint

The Arrival Feed

Once you get off the bus (1600 or so), you will be hungry. We were starving. Forget the fancy crab restaurants for a second. Your first stop must be an iconic Blue food truck/shop known as El Dios del Sandwich (The Sandwich God). And for any football fans, this place is like a shrine to the Argentine football gods. I ordered a Choripán (chorizo sandwich), and it was perfect.

Where We Stayed

There are a couple good options, but we opted for Oshovia Hostel. Since we visited in April (shoulder season), it was quiet enough that we got a dorm room to ourselves! It’s clean, warm (crucial down here), and the staff were super helpful.

The Evening Walk

Once checked in, we headed into town. We suggest walking along the waterfront, which is lined with history. You’ll pass the Plaza Malvinas, a solemn memorial dedicated to the fallen soldiers of the Falklands War.

The centerpiece is the Eternal Flame, which burns continuously against the backdrop of the dark ocean. It’s a powerful, quiet place to pay your respects and understand the local perspective on the conflict.

We planned to have a fancy dinner, but after seeing the prices (Ushuaia is not the cheapest city in Argentina!), we retreated to our budget roots: Empanadas.

To cap off the night, we wanted a beer. Amazingly, the locally brewed stuff was delicious. We deffo recommend a bar named “Santos”!

Day 2: Whales, Glaciers & Easter Feasts

The Beagle Channel Cruise

We started the day at the port for a classic Beagle Channel cruise (from Get Your Guide). This was fabulous. Seeing the famous “Les Eclaireurs” lighthouse (often confused with the Lighthouse at the End of the World) was iconic, but the wildlife made it special. We saw colonies of sea lions shouting at each other, cormorants that looked like penguins from a distance, and—best of all—Whales! Amazing.

The Martial Glacier

After the cruise (and maybe another visit to the Sandwich God? Don’t judge us), we decided to burn off the calories.

We took an Uber to the base of the Glaciar Martial. This is a moderately difficult (but gets steep!) hike with amazing views: You can see the whole city grid of Ushuaia and the channel stretching out to the horizon. Expect a 7km (4 miles) round trip that takes around 3–4 hours. Note that there is a small fee to enter the area.

Sloth Scoop: It’s a bit tough at the end, but compared to the entrance fees of the nearby National Parks, this is the best free view in town.

Alternative Option: The National Park

If hiking up to a steep glacier sounds rubbish to you, we suggest heading to Tierra del Fuego National Park. You can take the famous “Train of the End of the World” (Tren del Fin del Mundo), which follows the historic convict route. It’s pricier, but much more relaxed and scenic. Just expect big entry fees to the national park.

An Easter Sunday Feast

Since it was Easter Sunday, we decided to blow the budget slightly. We showered, changed, and headed to Casimiro Biguá Parrilla for a proper meat feast. We had the Patagonian Lamb (Cordero Patagónico), which is slow-roasted over an open fire. Delicious.

We finished the night with a photo at the massive “Ushuaia” sign and one last look at the harbour lights (and maybe another beer!).

The Departure

We had an early start the next morning for our flight to Buenos Aires, so nothing was achieved.

However, the Ushuaia airport (Malvinas Argentinas) is stunning. It’s built of wood and stone, resembling a ski lodge, and the takeoff offers one last spectacular view of the mountains plunging into the sea.